The North Coast 500 is a campervan journey we planned to do before getting Colin.. and now it’s reality!
We are not just winging it. We signed up to the NC500 website and paid for the official map, guidebook and passport. This has been so helpful in planning the route, campsite stop overs and things to do and see along the way. A little OCD, but the whole trip is meticulously planned with a 4 page, 84 line spreadsheet including 15 campsites and loads of things along the way.
Now, we don’t live anywhere near Scotland and the start of the NC 500 is in Inverness so it’s realistically taken us two days to get here.
The rest of the blog is our journey….. 16 days of pure campervan heaven (well, we think so anyway).
Day 1- Central Bedfordshire to Edinburgh
Fairly boring really…. We left home at 6am to get ahead if any traffic we might encounter on a Saturday morning. It’s 355 miles from our house to Edinburgh so sensible to get going early.
We had a planned stop in Crook, Co. Durham to see so e friends who have recently moved up there and conveniently that was just over half way! We made good time although the A1 got a tad boring! The stop off in Crook for caffeine and a wee was well needed!
Having left Crook around 11.30 we got on our way again. We contemplated stopping for lunch but seeing as we were due in Edinburgh for just after 2pm we decided to push on. We arrived exactly on time at Mortonhall so parked up and ate lunch.
After lunch we thought we might go for a short stroll. 5 miles later we found ourselves in the centre of the city…. And where better to have dinner than Bread Meats Bread.
It was an Uber back to the campsite and straight to bed!
Day 2- Edinburgh to Inverness
We got up early and started on the journey as it was another couple of hours of driving. Skirting around the Cairngorms there is some absolutely stunning scenery.
Once in Inverness we filled up at the petrol station and headed to the Botanical Gardens … Our first stamp in the NC500 passport.
Once we had mooched around the beautiful plants etc straight onto our campsite on the shore of the Beauly Firth. And I mean literally on the shore!
Day 3- Inverness to Contin
Up early this morning. We had taken the rail sail down the night before so there wasn’t much to do. The sun was shining and the tide was out- Beauly Firth looked gorgeous.
After breakfast we headed off. Not far until our second NC500 stamp stop- Strathpeffer Pump Rooms. Unfortunately it was shut today as it’s Scottish bank holiday! So we found a nice bakery/ cafe and grabbed latte and a quiche for Stew’s lunch later. We took a wander to an ancient Pictish symbol-, The Eagle Stone and then to a disused Victorian railway station which had been turned into a parade of shops.
From there we drove past our campsite and onto Rogie Falls- an impressive set of waterfalls on River Blackwater. We had read that you can sometimes see salmon leaping up river but never expected to see any. Hugely pleasantly surprised to see several dark salmon leaping several feet out of the water!
We stopped off at a forestry commission site for lunch and the onto our campsite- Riverside in Contin. Riverside it most certainly is- we are literally metres away.
Apart from a short walk we have chilled this afternoon, happily under the rail sail whisky thunder and lightning crashes around us.
Day 4- Contin to Applecross
This is the day we have been looking forward to. The day we drive up the Bealach na Ba road- the old cattle track through the mountains.
First however we visited Attadale Gardens for another stamp in the NC500 passport. We pulled up into an empty carpark and wondered if this might be a little dull. As we walked up the drive we were welcomed by a dog who helpfully lead us to the entrance kiosk. We were given a map of the gardens and allowed to wander around at our own pace.
We were pleasantly surprised. Th gardens are beautiful and have several sections such as the Japanese garden and rhododendron garden. All very well maintained. There is even a DIY tea shop… Make your own drink, help yourself to a snack etc and pop the money in an honesty box.
From there we headed to the start of the Bealach na Ba and stopped at the start for a photo by the sign. We set up the GoPro to record a timelapse of the drive, waited until there were no vehicles in front of us and set off.
Most of the road is a single track but there are plenty of passing places. You need to be aware of oncoming traffic and be prepared to pull over. The pass rises up through mountains to over 2000ft and the scenery is insane. Like mind-blowing. Just amazing. I took advantage of Stew driving to take photos where I could.
It didn’t take long to reach a small carpark at the top of the pass which hosts the Bealach na Ba pass viewpoint. Again, crazy views. We then headed down, through some hairpin bends to our campsite at the base in Applecross.
After setting up, we wandered down the path into Applecross village. Small, but on the sea front looking out to the Isle of Skye. Not only did we find a pub but also a bar and restaurant which served gluten free food. We hadn’t planned to eat out but soon changed our minds!
Then back up the hill to bed! (Well, hiding in the van from the midges anyway).
Day 5- Applecross to Gairloch
Well, I thought the best of the scenery had been and gone… But I was so wrong. The coastal path out of Applecross gives some equally amazing views… Sea, lochs, mountains….. Lots more wows! We recommend pausing at viewpoints and parking places (not passing places like some idiots)…. Take in the fresh air and take some photos!
We headed to the Beinn Eighe Nature Reserve for our next stamp. We found some maps and sign posted walks…. 5 miles later we had been to a fab viewpoint. Back to Colin for some lunch and then onto Victoria Falls- another waterfall.
Our next campsite was just past Gairloch- in Big Sand. We found ourselves parking up on a rather large sand dune which boasted gorgeous golden sands leading to the sea again. Quite windy, but at least that means no midges!
Day 6-Gairloch to Ullapool
After leaving the campsite we stopped off at Gairloch Heritage museum- for a passport stamp but also because it was pretty interesting. The history of Highland crofters and Gaelic, all in a huge old concrete nuclear bunker!
From there we were meant to go to Inverewe Gardens but the weather was fairly pants so we decided to give it a miss.
Again, the scenery from the roads was stunning…. Brining home that the holiday wasn’t about the destination, it was about the journey. We stopped at Corrieshalloch Gorge… A massive gorge in the rocks with a huge waterfall, best viewed from a suspension bridge above. I dont mind heights but the bridge rocked somewhat so was a tad scary (and there are signs saying no more than 6 people at a time!).
We left there and headed to our campsite- on the shore of Loch Broom in Ullapool. Stunning location and we couldn’t have asked for nicer weather. We sat out at the pub overlooking the loch, watching fishing boats unload, seals bob around and the ferry arrive and leave. The weather was so amazing we sat on the beach and watched the sun set- as did others.
Day 7- Ullapool to Lochinver
Up early as we know we had a lot of driving to do. We headed along the coastal path but did a detour off towards Altandhu and Alhitibuie. Oh my god… If you thought the Bealach na Ba pass was beautiful you need to drive down this road. Single track again with fantastic ever changing views of Lochs and mountains. And the Summer Isles at the end!
After we recovered from that drive we drive to Knockan Crag. The whole area is in North Scotland’s geopark which is a significant area of geological importance. At the Knockan Crag information point you can learn about how geologists realised that the rocks are actually upside down, with the oldest on top… Suggesting significant tectonic plate movements happened millions of years ago. (Sorry, I love geology!).
Next on the list was Bone Caves. We knew it was about a mile walk uphill from the carpark which wasn’t a problem so we set off. Drizzling a little but we had waterproof coats and walking boots on. As we progressed up the path, the rain got heavier and the wind stronger. We are talking really strong…. To the point where (with caves more or less in view) we gave up and turned back. Absolutely gutted we didnt make it but totally necessary. We got back to the van and literally had to strip. The waterproof coats had seen us through but the lack of waterproof trousers meant that not only were our trousers completely drenched but it had also seeped into our socks and boots. Good job Colin has blackout windows!
Having dumped our wet stuff on a towel and get changed into dry clothes we headed to Castle Ardreck, not far down the road. Cute old ruin which sits out on a bit of a peninsula. It was still raining… But what the hell. We trekked over to the ruins, and back again…. And set number 3 clothes needed. Drenched through again.
We gave up with sightseeing and headed to our campsite, where we attached a series of bungee cords across the van and turned the heating on!
Day 8- Lochinver to Durness
First stop of the day was to find the Eas a’ Chual Aluinn waterfall. After yesterday’s failure due to the weather we were dubious. We found the correct carpark and donned our waterproofs. It wasn’t raining so that was a good start but we knew how quickly things changed. Got out of the van… And surrounded by midges. On the basis that it was a 3 mile walk to the waterfall, I didn’t feel like being eaten alive. Memories of the midges getting under my wrist splint at Applecross haunted me.
We continued on the NC500 and stopped briefly to admire the curved Kylescu bridge. Then onto Oldshoremore and the beautiful Polin beach. Don’t get me wrong, it was still raining so we didn’t stop for long! We continued to Sango Sands in Durness. Having got there earlier than planned we headed off to Smoo Cave. Jesus this is spectacular. A huge waterfall thunders into the cave…. And you end up absolutely soaked from the spray. Well worth getting wet for!
On the walk back to the campsite we bumped into a guy. We got chatting and realised he had been walking for 481 days… Had started off Manchester way and walked up to Scotland and had been walking ever since. He does all this whilst dragging a 60kg trolley with all his possessions. I asked why… Turns out life took a crap turn for him and he became homeless. Instead of wallowing he decided to walk around the UK…. And enjoy life. Totally amazing guy and so much respect. Noel Hodgson you are a legend!
Day 9- Durness to Thurso
Lots of driving today… But that’s the point. Again spectacular mountains and lochs until we hit miles and miles of peat bogs. Such an important wildlife area and CO2 sink. We pulled over at Moine House in the middle of the bog blanket. It’s ruins now, with graffiti but has been given a preservation order.
Biggest deal of the day… We saw a Golden Eagle. Didn’t think to get a photo as I had jumped out of the van to get a clearer view. They are HUGE!
We the headed across the Kyle of Tongue to park up in Tongue. We walked the footpath to Castle Varrich which is up on a hillside overlooking the Kyle. Amazing views, with a pair of buzzards circling overhead.
We the headed to Strathnaver Museum just past Betty hill, which we were meant to visit to get another passport stamp, only to find it had shut down. We wandered around the churchyard where the museum was, and found another Pictish stone.
From there, we drove across more peat bogland to Thurso. Having arrived at our campsite early, we then decided to walk the Thurso historical path, taking in ruins of a church and castle. The town was pretty dead as it’s a Sunday, although we did discover that the cafe on th campsite has gluten-free ice-cream cones! Hello! That was a very nice treat!
Day 10- Thurso to Wick
This was such an amazing day…. Jam packed with places and to top it all off the sun was shining!
First stop was Dunnet Bay distillery to get a stamp for the passport. They make a variety of vodka and find and as we’re not a fan of either we just purchased some chocolate and drinking biscuits!
From there is was along the coast to Dunnet Head- the most northerly point of mainland Great Britain. There’s a lighthouse and a variety of walks, one of which takes you up to a platform where you can get a 360 view. It was a really clear day so we could see right over to the Orkney Isles. Many varieties of sea birds nesting on the cliffs too.
Next on the list was to visit Castle of Mey which is the Queen Mother’s own Castle. She bought it in the 1950s to prevent it from going to ruin. It’s small and very homely with lots of the Queen Mother’s possessions inside. Really lovely to hear the guides tell stories about her. There’s also stunning gardens and an animal centre to visit. The location of the castle is beautiful- you can really see why she loved visiting.
Onwards to John O’Groats to get the typical photo posing in front of the mile marker sign! There’s not much here apart from a few shops and some boat tours so we left fairly quickly.
Next stop was Duncansby Head and it’s lighthouse. This is the most northeasterly point of the UK. I remembered to take my binoculars this time to get a close up of the nesting sea birds. I was hoping to see my first puffins but no such luck. I then walked over to the Duncansby stacks. There’s some seriously stunning geology around here!
Last but not least we made our way to Castle Sinclair Girnigoe. I cannot stress to you how amazing this ruin is. It’s sits on the edge of the cliff and is built in a way that the structure resembles the cliffs themselves! If you’re in the area this is an absolute priority!
